Come Si Dice “Silver Linings”?

Trees along a snowy lake with fog

In an attempt to be more jolly this holiday season, here are the silver linings to my recent grievances.

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The One Where I Get Stranded and Swindled in a Milan Suburb

Bus passengers' feet

“I don’t think I have the right ticket…” I text Alberto from a bus -- a bus that I’m riding illegally without any valid documents aside from an old Iowa driver’s license.

The Strangers I Meet or Ignore on the Milan Subway

Red subway car with doors open

Riding the Milan subway makes me feel like a globetrotter who’s got places to go and people to see (I don’t, usually).

How to Almost Get Your Italian Residency Permit

Old iron gate with spikes partially lowered over stone arch

Italy is a gorgeous country with delectable food and fascinating history, but (1) You already know that. (2) It’s more fun to write about dumpster fires. So, here’s another one of my infernos.

What to Do in Stockholm, Sweden (According to an Italian, U.S. American, Dane and Some Swedes)

Buildings in Gamla Stan in Stockholm, Sweden

Most Italians head to the stunning seaside for their summer vacations, but we were looking to add not shed layers, so we headed north to the land of cinnamon buns and paternity leave.

Motherhood from Italy to Taiwan (or 2019 Women’s March Sign Inspiration)

Pregnant woman holds stomach

“I need a job for a woman. Un lavoro per una donna,” this earnest, bright-eyed 19-year-old said to me.

Stranger Danger Isn’t Real at Dinnertime: Milan Airbnb Experience

Pasta making machine with hand holding noodles

I don't enjoy cooking but I do like homemade Italian food and interesting dinner companions.

Health Care in Italy: A Tale of Three Doctors

Medical supplies on table and doctor's hand with clipboard

“Take off your underwear,” the doctor instructed. Right now? In this moment? Here? Can I get a gown or glass of wine first?

7 Reasons You Might Be Sick, According to Nonna

Sick person under bed covers

“But it’s good for your cholesterol!” she protested before going on the stoop to smoke.

Being a Pacifist (or How Americans Can Avoid Getting Punched in the Face in Europe)

Silhouette of peace fingers against sky

Despite my best efforts to avoid a fight on the first day of school, I have to flee a brawl.