Come Si Dice “Silver Linings”?

Trees along a snowy lake with fog

In an attempt to be more jolly this holiday season, here are the silver linings to my recent grievances.

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The Girl Who Got Her Italian Residence Permit (For Real This Time)

Hand stamps a piece of paper with wooden stamp

Too legit to quit, ragazzi.

The One Where I Get Stranded and Swindled in a Milan Suburb

Bus passengers' feet

“I don’t think I have the right ticket…” I text Alberto from a bus -- a bus that I’m riding illegally without any valid documents aside from an old Iowa driver’s license.

The Strangers I Meet or Ignore on the Milan Subway

Red subway car with doors open

Riding the Milan subway makes me feel like a globetrotter who’s got places to go and people to see (I don’t, usually).

How to Almost Get Your Italian Residency Permit

Old iron gate with spikes partially lowered over stone arch

Italy is a gorgeous country with delectable food and fascinating history, but (1) You already know that. (2) It’s more fun to write about dumpster fires. So, here’s another one of my infernos.

Pain in the Neck or Cultural Whiplash? How to Get X-Rays in Italy

Fake skeleton looks at x-ray against window

“Niente di grave,” the doctor begins, pausing to look at me intently. Nothing serious. He either senses my anxiety or he doesn’t trust my language skills. Probably both.

Motherhood from Italy to Taiwan (or 2019 Women’s March Sign Inspiration)

Pregnant woman holds stomach

“I need a job for a woman. Un lavoro per una donna,” this earnest, bright-eyed 19-year-old said to me.

Stranger Danger Isn’t Real at Dinnertime: Milan Airbnb Experience

Pasta making machine with hand holding noodles

I don't enjoy cooking but I do like homemade Italian food and interesting dinner companions.

Health Care in Italy: A Tale of Three Doctors

Medical supplies on table and doctor's hand with clipboard

“Take off your underwear,” the doctor instructed. Right now? In this moment? Here? Can I get a gown or glass of wine first?

On (Not) Dating a Macho Mammone Italian Man

Statue of David

“I’m very sorry,” my teacher Sara replies when I share that I’m married to an Italian.